Time-Lapse Calculator

What is a Time-Lapse?

A time-lapse is a technique where photos are taken at regular intervals over a period of time, then played back as a video at a standard frame rate. This compresses hours or days of real time into seconds or minutes of video, revealing slow processes that are invisible to the naked eye.

The Core Formula

Time-lapse calculations rely on three simple relationships:

• Total Frames = Shooting Duration / Shooting Interval
• Video Length = Total Frames / Playback Frame Rate
• Speed-up Factor = Shooting Interval × Playback Frame Rate

For example, shooting for 1 hour with a 5-second interval at 30 fps: 3600 / 5 = 720 frames, and 720 / 30 = 24 seconds of video. The real scene is sped up 150×.

Choosing the Right Interval

The shooting interval determines how much motion is visible between consecutive frames. Shorter intervals capture smoother motion, while longer intervals create a more dramatic speed-up effect:

• 1–2 s: Fast-moving subjects (traffic, people). Produces smooth, cinematic motion.
• 3–5 s: Medium-speed subjects (clouds, sunsets). The most commonly used range.
• 10–30 s: Slow subjects (stars, shadows, tides). Requires a stable tripod and possibly long exposures.
• 1–60 min: Very slow processes (construction, plant growth, seasonal changes). Often requires external power and weatherproofing.

Frame Rate Selection

• 24 fps: Cinema standard. Slightly dreamy, cinematic feel. Most common for time-lapse.
• 25 fps: PAL standard (Europe, Australia). Use if your project targets PAL broadcast.
• 30 fps: NTSC standard (North America, Japan). Slightly smoother than 24 fps.
• 60 fps: Very smooth playback. Requires twice as many frames as 30 fps for the same duration.

Practical Tips

• Battery life: Long time-lapses drain batteries quickly. Use an AC adapter or battery grip for shoots over 1–2 hours.
• Storage: RAW files at 25–50 MB each add up fast. A 2-hour shoot at 5 s intervals produces 1,440 photos (36–72 GB).
• Stability: Use a sturdy tripod and disable image stabilization. Even slight shifts between frames cause visible jitter.
• Manual exposure: Shoot in manual mode to avoid flickering caused by auto-exposure adjustments between frames.
• Intervalometer: Use a built-in or external intervalometer for precise, consistent intervals.

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